#1: A Fear Of Flying
#2: When in Rome (1)
From my notebook:
“Leave hotel not-Valeria-Golino at 10.30 after approximation of breakfast, and head for Colaseum (sic)……and because of weather still miserable, decide to skip sights again and go straight to Termini and look for way to Tiburtina.”
My destination was
Giulianova, far away on the eastern Italian coast overlooking the Adriatic. The width of Italy away. No pressure. Because there was a bus. In theory.
“Rome Metro Line B northwards. Roman metro carriages are absolutely caked in graffiti, as if they were already partly so and the authorities hired the same people to finish the job for continuity’s sake. (Apols. spidery writing: am on metro, v. juddery). Rattle to Tiburtina.”
“At station now, bit confused. Walk past “busker” - sawn off electric with once-every-2-minutes strumming method along to sounds-like
Kraftwerk. Multitude of ticket booths plastered with unofficial-looking signs. Hint of
Cut Me Own Throat Dibbler about it all. Get ticket - 1 Euro. Are you sure? Turns out he got it wrong when I go back [he thought I meant a station in Rome that sounded a lot like Giulianova if said by an Englishman]. Am redirected to bus station across the road.”
I dodge traffic awhile. This feels very Italian.
“At station, find right ticket booth, bit like finding the right crate in that warehouse in Indiana Jones. Timetable I have is wrong but happily so,bus is at 12.25pm. Off I go.”
It’s a stunning journey.

“Small Italian towns here and there struggle free from an almost total canopy of green. Rocky outcrops offer the opportunity for a castle or wannabe-castle to shout “we own the land” while all around the town knows better and hides in the shade. There’s snow up there, filling crinkles in the topography.”

“A quarry shows the land underneath, the colour of my boots. ” [Mustard-brown].
“Come out of L’Aquila’s subterranean bus station in full sunshine and snow-streaked peaks of Apennines line the horizon. Up close, the mountains are impossible. Now way beyond feeling like western Crete.“
“As I write, we are going through the Apennines.“
“And out, into a colossal sweep of pillar-supported road…..

….high above the treeline. The mountains behind us are gone, into the cloud. D. Copperfield would approve.”
“Now spikely-rolling patchwork, rich greens with tree-smothered hollows. Houses look like everyone would know who lives in them. Everything looked tended and valued (rose-tint?). Slumped hillsides fray the carpet.”
“Adverts and modern buildings starting to look out of place (nice feeling). Butterscotch and cinder toffee walls. Where grass can grow, it does. Churches rise elementally, unbroken rock. How can I be in the heart of rural Italy and listening to
Mercy on the radio? And why does it fit? She’s Welsh. “
“Someone inspecting a used car in a car-lot, grass waist-high everywhere in it.”
“I almost don’t want to arrive. But we have.”
(More soon).