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The World, The World

Audio Essay: Never Wait

And because I apparently have a “crazy English accent”….

Here’s a story about timing.

Once upon a time there was a kid with long, blond, curly hair and sun-browned legs. They were often tucked under him, on the middle of a row of airline seats ripped from a scrapped commercial jet. To the left, seat 1 contained a half-opened laminated scroll of map showing the lay of Middle Earth. A glass bottle of Coke, pierced by a straw, rested precariously in the middle of seat 3. Occasionally, the kid’s right hand would blindly feel its way across to the bottle, just managing to catch it before it got knocked over. This feat of dexterity, born of great deal of trial and error, would have been unnecessary if the kid used his eyes and maybe a little common sense – but he couldn’t take his eyes off the book he was reading.

“You’re late!”

“A wizard is never late, Frodo Baggins. Nor is he early – he arrives precisely when he means to!”

When he grew up and left Cyprus, the kid decided, he would become a writer.

Seven years later, those blond curls had turned brown and those legs had gone white. The kid was back in England, at an English school, and having the shit kicked out of him. It was that kind of school.

In Cyprus, the kid’s education was novelty and colour and fun, and the English made sense, but the rest was Greek to him. Back in England, school suddenly became a sullen place filled with repetition, resentment and occasional bouts of violence. Suddenly, being better than everyone else was the way to become a target, and so the kid let his grades lapse from As down to Bs and eventually into uncaring mediocrity – all except for his English scores. He really struggled to keep those down, and after a while, he gave up. After all, he knew that at some point, he’d become a writer. As soon as he got out of school and did something constructive with his time instead.

Now the kid was a teenager, and 5 years of being pushed around had made him bitter and a little misanthropic. School hadn’t changed: it was just a matter of repeating things emptily. It wasn’t about *thinking*. The only thinking he did was at home, his nose buried in books and old copies of National Geographic. School was just something to be endured, and the wait was almost over. A blur of GCSE exams – 2 A-grades for English, a passable mark for Geology and the rest of his scores reflecting his utter disinterest in being taught anything by people who clearly didn’t understand him.

Well, thank god THAT was over.

Now what? It was too early to be a writer, obviously. So…what should he do now?

Now it’s 1993. It’s starting to dawn on this kid-turned-teenager-turned-drifting-20-something that he’s made some serious blunders. There’s a version of himself in his mind, less an ideal than an adequate: a grown-up version of the kid sitting on that airline seat, his legs still brown, his hair still blond, still climbing trees and jumping off low cliffs into the sea and falling off bicycles, and above all, seeing the world. Perhaps National Geographic has given him unrealistic expectations, but he feels that staying in one place, seeing the same things day in, day out, is a pretty poor way to live. Yet that’s what he’s currently doing, drifting from one low-paid job to the next, finding nothing that inspires him enough to engage meaningfully with it, anaesthetizing his despair with junk food and allowing himself to become fat.

Then something happens, inside his head. Some kind of last-ditch emergency klaxon goes off. He goes for long walks, goes rowing on the nearby lake, sits on the beach and throws stones into the sea until his fingertips ache from all the blood pooled in them. He knows he’ll become a writer at some point, but…all this waiting is silly. It’s not going to end well. Something has to change, and it has to change NOW.

He goes home and flicks through some National Geographics. A few hours later, he’s scraped his meagre earnings together for a 2-week walking holiday in Austria. A month later, he’s walking through the South Tyrol with a bunch of crazy English people. Two weeks after that, he’s back home – bags under his eyes from exhaustion, and over a stone lighter. He feels…different. More aware. And this isn’t a pleasant feeling. He looks over his life as it is right now, and sees that ignorance was indeed a kind of bliss. Everything is a mess.

Then, a week later, his father dies of a heart attack.

It’s 2000, and he’s finally at University. After 7 long years of retaking GCSEs, taking A-levels for the first time in his life, failing them because he never learned how to study effectively, learning how to study effectively, retaking his A-levels at a 6th fom college in Hull surrounded by 17 year olds (he’s 29 at this point) and finally being accepted by the University of York on their Archaeology Undergraduate course…he’s here.

Why didn’t he pick English? Well, he knows he will be a writer at *some* point, but in the meantime it would be sensible to pick a career with strong job prospects.

So he picks…..

Archaeology.

*sigh*

Skip forward 4 years. His degree is over, a year later than planned because his mother was diagnosed with cancer and he deferred his course for a year to look after her. Once she was well again, he returned to York and finished up. His grades were pretty good, but not spectacular, as befitting his interest in the subject.

It’s in this year that he starts writing a blog called Fevered Mutterings. It’s an embarassingly self-conscious affair, but he finds that the process of writing a little every day is making strange things happen in his brain.

It’s September the 3th, 2011. He’s sitting in the back garden of the house he rents a room in, at night, tapping into his laptop a summary of the last 30 years of his life. And he’s a little appalled. There’s nothing *new* to him here, but it’s a disturbing thing, to put himself into his own mind, 10, 20, 30 years ago, and to relive those reasons for making those mistakes, reasons that felt rational at the time. He’s so bemused by it all that he distances himself from his story by writing it in the third-person, and curiously it helps him get a grip on it all, to see the shape of it as a narrative. Because it’s not as simple as a misguided waste of a couple of decades, a gradual waking of his true self. There’s an extraordinary amount of life lived in there, a lot of it unconventionally, yes, but…this is who he was, so it’s also who he is.

Where he is now…is extraordinary. He’s working harder than he’s ever worked, connecting with people he’d never dreamed of connecting with, and putting together a lifestyle that will allow him to earn enough from his freelance work to travel indefinitely. His days are packed, and his brain is working overtime.

But there’s no escaping the obvious. The best time for him to become a writer…was 30 years ago.

Never. Ever. Wait. 

Image: aspearing.

Trans Pennine Trail: The Long, Winding Goodbye

It’s midnight, and I’m looking up at a signpost.

The best way to see England is on foot. (The second best way? Ask Sustrans). It’s a country designed to fit your feet, whether via the National Trail network or by those enticing mystery dashed lines you see winding their way into the trees at the fringes of your Ordnance Survey Landranger. You’re not meant to go from A to B – you’re supposed to dabble with the rest of the alphabet. This is why English people of a certain age will argue until they’re blue in the face about the ‘quickest route’ for a stranger to get somewhere. What they really mean is their favourite route – and everyone has a different one, because England can accomodate that.

At midnight on the 23rd of August I’m in Hornsea, my childhood home on East Yorkshire’s coastline. I’ve wandered along the sea-front, tweeting fitfully and plucking at memories, until I’ve reached the Marine Hotel and a sheer concrete wall to the upper promenade I clearly remember being too nervous to climb, which I can now scale by jumping, grabbing the rail and pulling myself up. (It’s such a contrast that I feel I have someone else’s memory). The clouds are low enough to turn to mist, fogging the streetlights and giving the ruinous amusement arcades the look of a heavily anti-aliased Pripyat.

Then I’m at the end of the old railway line, the one that connected Hornsea with Hull until Doctor Beeching swung his axe. The disused train station is long gone, and replaced with an enormous paved compass, pointing westwards – specifically, at Southport, on the other side of the country.

I walk the first mile of it.

From here, the Trail winds over the Wolds and down towards Sheffield, splitting in either direction to provide secondary routes for the weekend-tripper (one of which is up to York, via the whole Solar System)….

…and finally, on the main route, reaching Southport on the west coast, 20 miles north of Liverpool.

When Barbara of Hole In The Donut Travels came to York a few months back, I was startled to learn she hadn’t arrived via London. Because all too often, that’s the England visitors see. I’m not knocking London (it’s a fascinating place) but it’s not a synonym for England. The England I love best, that gets me scanning maps with what I can only describe as geographic lust, is that of hill and dale and moor and backwater trail – and the best ways to find these are by taking the great trans-England walking routes so beloved by folk like Wainwright (who even devised his own coast to coast walk)…

Striding along these great Ways isn’t just an effective method for seeing (and feeling) England – it’s also a great way to say goodbye to it. Since my plans revolve around seeing the rest of the world, a couple of final, epic walks sometime soon are an attractive prospect.

And the symbolism of starting the last of them from my childhood home?

Irresistible.

Further reading:

  • Walking Britain: tons of ideas here, complete with detailed breakdowns of walks and some (sadly quite small) photos of what you can expect to see.
  • It is absolutely impossible to read this book and not have twitchy feet. That’s you warned.
Images: rofanator, vikellis, karenwithak, steves71.

Dead Air Under London

Fevered Mutterings Image - Pedestrian Tunnels connecting Heathrow terminals - Mike Sowden

London breathes on my back. Around me, shirts billow, dresses flare and hats are clutched, as the stuffy, tasteless air roars past us in search of somewhere to dump its heat. Behind me, the mournful screee of an Underground Tube train – and around me, a subterranean London that is far from solid.

Imagine laying a cross-section across the city, dividing it like a cake. Looking at the results, you’d think: earthworms. The ground under London is Swiss-cheesed with cavities. There are the most famous – the London Underground and its many, many abandoned stations, and the extraordinarily extensive sewer system pioneered by Joseph Bazalgette, the “Sewer King“, an engineering marvel now threatened from above. But around them, burrowed into the sponge of subterranean London, are countless other mysterious voids. The church catacombs, most notably at Camden. The military bunkers and citadels and their extensive tunnel networks.  The pedestrianways winding between Heathrow’s terminals (above), hauntingly endless when you’re dragging your suitcase down them. And then there’s the Fleet, London’s lost river, gushing back and forth through the sewer tunnels as the tide waxes and wanes, a trickle of its former self but still powerful enough to drown the unwary.

And through all this, the dead air of London’s ancient breath…

In.

Out.

Photo: Mike Sowden 2011.

Further reading:

Mistakes: Make Them.

If at first you don’t succeed..you might be onto something here.

For a long while, my ability to attract misadventure and fall flat on my face whenever enough ground presented itself…well, it haunted me. Other people seemed to glide as if well-oiled through the machinations of society. I rattled, clunked and occasionally jammed.

In 1995 I went on my first archaeological excavation to West Sussex (only a few miles from where I was last month, in fact). I took the train – the first time I’d used the backwater trains south of London. In most cases, the carriage doors don’t have handles on the insides; you push the window down and reach through to turn the outer handle. I didn’t know this.

The train stopped. I pawed at the door like a trapped animal. Since nobody watching me could work out what I was doing, nobody stepped in to help. After a while, the train started rolling, and at precisely the point it began to move too fast to jump off it, I realised I needed to open  the window to get out. I pulled it down and shouted “HELP” at the English countryside. When I turned round, a backpacker was laid on the floor, laughing so hard he couldn’t breathe.

A few hours later, at the excavation site, I discovered I should have brought a welded hard steel (WHS) 4″ trowel, like this:

Instead, I pulled out one of these:

The archaeology students I’d just befriended all fell to the floor and wept openly.

This was my one and only chance to make a good impression. And I’d fluffed it.

But.

What happened next was what always happens next, in a pattern I hadn’t yet recognised but I’ve since come to associate with most of the events in my life. I became “the guy [that did something fantastically stupid]”  - in this case, “the guy with the big-ass trowel”. My mistake hadn’t just dissipated into thin air, in the way I’d wanted to myself when I realised what a fool I’d been.

It had defined me.

Be remarkable, say personal branding gurus like Gary Vaynerchuk. Well, I am remarkable. I’m remarkably disaster-prone. My recent trip to Austria started with enough stress to put grey hairs in my beard. (I say that I grew a beard last week to compare with the one I grew 6 months ago, and it appears I’m turning into a badger). I’ve been like this for my entire adult life – and nowadays, that’s a long time. And it’s almost always self-inflicted. My friend Jodi Ettenberg has a problem with birds shitting on her. I have a problem with me shitting on me.

(Not literally – or this story would have been posted here).

However, you may have noticed how unconcerned I am at all this self-sabotage. I honestly don’t care. Take a look at this blog’s subtitle. Does that sound the work of someone ashamed of what a walking disaster he is? Ain’t so.

In future posts I’m going to dig deep into the power of mistakes, the little-evangelized joy of protracted misfortune, and the way that everyone takes pity on the klutz in the room. (You want to break the ice with people on the road, right? Then channel your inner numpty. Prove you’re a human in the most mortifying way possible, and once they’ve picked themselves up off the floor where they’ve been laying laughing at you, you’ll have a friend for life).

This is the tip of a huge iceberg, waiting to bang a hole in the side of your dignity. My advice? Sail straight at it – full speed ahead.

Mistakes are medals.

Aim to become highly decorated.

Images: Kurt Thomas Hunt, Electricians Direct and Jeffrey Beall.

Audio essay: Going Under At Ayia Napa

Fevered Mutterings Image: Cape Greco, by TeryKats - Flickr

Image: TeryKats.

Mongol Rally 2011: The Festival Of Slow (Clothing Optional)

Fevered Mutterings image - Crowds seen from ambulance window, Festival of Slow, Mongol Rally 2011- Mike Sowden

Poor devils. Little do they know what's coming.

The ambulance picks up speed.

“I’m really sorry!” shouts the bleached-haired man in the doorway as I fight to click in my seat-belt.

WHAT? I CAN’T HEAR….”

“I said I’m really sorry - I’M ABOUT TO GET NAKED!”

I laugh dutifully. Well, they’re adventurers, not comedians, and however in-jokey or lame their attempts at humour are, I’m their guest. I should make the effort. I force a semblance of an amused grin and give the thumbs-up, then turn back to the window to photograph the crowds blurring past.

When I turn back, he’s naked.

Fevered Mutterings image - Spectators, Festival of Slow, Mongol Rally - Mike Sowden

I say, is it my imagination, Muriel, or is that ambulance filled with nudists?

The vehicle stops. I suddenly see the driver has become naked as well. And the front passenger. The fourth member of the team is still clothed and looks disturbed, but not entirely surprised. There is an air of normality about this unexpected eruption of nudity, a matter-of-factness. I’m suddenly concerned that they’ll ask me to participate in whatever the hell it is they’re doing. Terrified, even.

Naked Man n0. 1 pulls open the side-door and steps out, full-frontalling the crowd. I point my camera at the sea of laughing, horrified faces – then a pair of (mercifully blurry) bare buttocks fill my viewfinder, bisected vertically with a strip of luminous green. He’s not naked – he’s wearing a mankini.

In other words, worse than naked.

For my first press photographer’s lap of the circuit, I’ve somehow managed to pick an emergency vehicle driven by Borats.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Mankini'd bloke, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden (the photographer, I mean)

Cheeky.

The Mongol Rally‘s Festival of Slow is all about spectacle. Beyond the Russian Border Guards, Undercover Spies and Mail-Order Brides picking their way through the crowds looking for prey…

I lav yoo! Need of wife? Ivana makes you happy, PayPal it is OK!

…beyond the gryrating Mongolian wrestlers and the hypercaffeinated MC rushing up and down the track, barely able to get the words into his microphone fast enough…

Well, there were the entrants.

Fevered Mutterings image - Discovery Channel vehicle, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

The perfect blend of car and Muppet - the "carpet".

Fevered Mutterings image - Various vehicles, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

Fevered Mutterings image - Smartcar in the Mongol Rally, 2011 - Mike Sowden

You're doing it in a *what*?

Fevered Mutterings image - Entrants, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

I've seen bog-bodies less brown than these guys.

You're going via Iraq? And the flag will be up all the way? Um...all the best.

Fevered Mutterings image - Craziness on a Mongol Rally car, Festival of Slow - Mike Sowden

Oh, don't even ask.

Fevered Mutterings image - Cars waiting to depart, Festival of Slow, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

Dear diary... Day 1: totally gridlocked. I now realise my months of playing Colin McRae DiRT were no training at *all*.

Before my lap in the Mankini Ambulance is up, I learn the reason for all this brazen man-flesh on display. The chaps in question are Halley’s Comics, and they’re raising funds for the Orchid male (prostate, penile, testicular) cancer charity. There’s method in their nakedness.

I leap out at the end of the lap, wish them good luck (and warmer clothing), and hunt for my next ride…

Acknowledgements:

The Adventurists were kind enough to invite me to this year’s Festival Of Slow (and pay for my train ticket).  It’s the eighth year of the Mongol Rally and the biggest yet, raising over £380,000 for charity at the time of writing.

You can track the progress of the Mongol Rally teams here: http://www.theadventurists.com/the-adventures/mongol-rally/live

(And go say hi to my friends Dave, Deb, Rick & Sherry of the Social Media Syndicate. They’ve already been pulled over by the police, and probably need your support).

Images: Mike Sowden, 2011.
Many thanks go to Travel4Press for featuring the Festival Of Slow as a press opportunity for freelance travel journalists. If you’re a travel writer, especially if you’re based in the UK, I honestly can’t recommend T4P enough for finding work and keeping up with industry news. Did I mention they’re free to use? Yeah. Amazing.

Nobody Expects The Orkney Haar

Surely my eyes have blown a fuse. The world is blank – not a hole (because holes are *in* something) but a total absence, a blackness filled with light.

Vertigo sweeps over me. And…that strange muddled sense of depth, like when you’re drifting off to sleep in a darkened room and suddenly you can’t tell if the ceiling is a million miles away or pressed against your face.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Haar, between Mainland Orkney and Westray - Mike Sowden

If I look down, the illusion is broken by the ship’s side-wake, curling outwards like scraped butter, but if I tilt my gaze so everything disappears from my peripheral vision, I’m floating once more. The view is a featureless aether lit by a coin of light wan enough to stare at. I drift, spiritually untethered, a sense of peace filling my entire….

…!!!!

Dear god.

Obviously. Obviously they would have…sounded the...fog-horn. Because we’re…in fog.

But…couldn’t they WARN us first?

Fevered Mutterings Image - Haar lifting, between Mainland Orkney and Westray - Mike Sowden

Suddenly the horizon is back, in the time it takes you to read this sentence.

Behind us, the ship’s wake appears and lengthens. Are we picking up speed? No – it’s the fog we’re emerging from, revealing the mark of our passage like a meteorological magic trick.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Wake of ship emerging from haar - Mike Sowden

Here in Orkney, a sea-fog or haar can descend at any time. In this case it’s in the middle of a sunny July day (2009).

This confuses me. Fog needs the kind of cool, damp air you’d find in Winter? But then I remembered the haar I met in August 2006 when I slept rough on the Orkney Mainland. Why fog in summer? The answer is wind, or rather a lack of it – during the Winter months, the incessant wind picks up enough to blow the fog away. It’s always around, developing wherever there’s a pronounced temperature difference between sea and sky …but Winter is more adept at moving it along, presumably to make room for some real weather.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Fog on Westray - Mike Sowden

A few days later, I emerge from my tent at Chalmersquoy on Westray after an afternoon nap to find everything smudged with haar. I watch (cursing at my camera’s inability to do it justice) as it rolls down from the hills and blankets the middle of Pierowall bay, a strip of cloud as discrete as a contrail – and as it dissipates, the buildings at the opposite side of the bay emerge, rising like the Golden Gate

Fevered Mutterings Image - Fog over Pierowall Bay, Westray - Mike Sowden

Images: Mike Sowden, 2009.

Mongol Rally 2011: A Few Myths Busted

Fevered Mutterings Image - Road To Forever, by The Wandering Angel - Flickr

Let’s say you bumped into me in the street a month ago, and asked me about the Mongol Rally.

I’m ashamed to say I’d have sounded like a misinformed idiot.

A Few Idiotic Myths About The Mongol Rally

1. It’s some kind of race, right? (To Mongolia? Duh).
2. It’s some kind of holiday. (Probably involving lots of good food and sunshine, the lucky gits).
3. It’s totally safe.
4. It’s just a bit of a laugh.
5. Hey, I could go on the Mongol Rally. Easily.

Then I attended the Festival of Slow – and the following things became clear to me.

Fevered Mutterings image - Starters orders, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

A Few Idiotic Myths Bust Wide Open

1. It’s Not A Race

Last Saturday, at Goodwood motor circuit, a long line of cars, trucks and ambulances revved their engines and honked and nee-naa’d their horns. The tannoy barked “Ready….set…..GO…SLOW!”  And off they roared on a parade lap of a 2.3 mile track that has hosted the likes of Graham Hill, Donald Campbell and Sterling Moss – this was the track that ended the latter’s international career in 1962, and took the life of Bruce McLaren in 1970. This is a track built for danger and for speed.

So, erm…slow?

Let’s get one thing straight here. You don’t race 10,000+ miles. You survive it. The Mongol Rally is daunting enough without a competitive edge. That’d be like setting up a space programme that encouraged astronauts to race each other to the ISS. It’s a stupid, dangerous suggestion – but more than that, it’s internationally illegal. There is absolutely no way the Mongol Rally would be allowed to cross the breadth of Europe and Asia, by whatever route the drivers choose, as a race. This is no Cannonball Run.

Cheer for these people. Cheer your socks off.

But not because you want them to win – because you want them to get there.

2. It’s Not A Holiday

Meet Rick, Dave, Deb and Sherry (hiding behind Rick), of the Social Media Syndicate.

Have a look at their car. Nice little motor, yes?

Now imagine being in it for 6 weeks, driving over a third of the circumference of this planet. Imagine being in that car for hours and hours at a stretch, day in, day out, sometimes driving, sometimes map-reading, sometimes panicking because the road is turning to a quagmire or increasingly banged full of potholes that are about oooh, roughly the size of a car. Imagine extremes of weather lashing at that car, terrifying the occupants. Imagine all the things that will, will, go wrong in the many fantastically desolate places in between Chichester and Ulaanbaatar.

Imagine there’s no support crew.

Fevered Mutterings image: Mongol Rally 2010 by Holidayextras - Flickr

Here’s the thing about the Mongol Rally: once you’re off, you’re absolutely on your own. It may have felt scary during preparation – organising visas, working out which route will require the least amount of bribing or waiting at border-crossings, realising there are some things you just have to leave to chance – but that’s going to be nothing compared with getting onto the road. Because it’s now your rally. As terrific a job as rally organisers The Adventurists have done to get you to this point and see you off, their responsibility for you ends here, for practical and legal reasons.

It’s now completely up to you.

(I spoke to Adventurist Dan Wedgwood about this. His opinion: the most common problem for competitors is overpreparation and its wretched offspring, overloading. You know when you put a travel-iron in your suitcase and you end up lugging the damn thing from hotel to hotel without using it once? Magnify that by a car boot load and 10,000 miles. The only sane course is faith. Faith that out there is everything you need, and faith in your ability to track it down when you need it. Faith. Remember to pack it).

One definition of holidaying is “travel with some kind of safety net”.

No safety net? Then this isn’t holidaying.

It’s adventuring.

Fevered Mutterings image - Mongol Rally 2006 crash by purpaboo - Flickr

3. It’s Not Safe

The Mongol Rally poses risks to your health and your life. You will be driving for many thousands of miles in parts of the world that are unfamiliar to you, which means your chances of being involved in a road accident or in any number of other health and life-threatening situations is significantly increased from your day to day life.

- The Adventurists

Download the Mongol Rally handbook (pdf) and have a read. Notice the utter candour about the risks involved. Notice phrases like “hectic, chaotic and dangerous”. Imagine something going wrong – as in really wrong – when you’re hundreds of miles from the nearest doctor, let alone hospital.

Explore that feeling for a second. Thrill in the horror of it.

(Don’t forget to breathe).

This is a risky business – and people have died while attempting it. The fact that almost everyone completes the Mongol Rally in (more or less) one piece is a testament to the type of person who enters – people with their eyes open, their brains fully engaged and an unshakeably optimistic “can do” attitude firmly in place.

Yes, it’s risky – but these people can handle it.

Fevered Mutterings image - Reliant Robin, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

4. It’s Not Just A Bit Of A Laugh

Why on earth would 350 teams of apparently sane people drive halfway across the world in ridiculously underpowered vehicles?

Because it’s fun. Isn’t that reason enough?

Actually…no, it isn’t. And it’s not the sole reason they do it, either.

Beyond the £700 entry fee, every participating team is required to earn at least £1,000 for charity. Half of that money will be going to the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation, to a specific project running in Mongolia called the Blue Skies Ger Village Project that develops housing for Ulaanbaatar’s orphans and street kids.

(Note that’s £1,000 as a lower limit: the record for a single team’s fundraising is a whopping £55,000).

But that’s not all. The vehicles are themselves part of the event’s charitable donations, turned over to the Foundation at journey’s end to be resold and spruced up by Mongolian car mechanics. This is the reason behind the recent stipulation that all entry vehicles must be less than 10 years old…exempting the emergency service vehicles.

Fevered Mutterings image - The ambulances of the Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

(When I first heard decommissioned ambulances were being used, I blinked. Ten thousand miles – in an ambulance? But if you think about it, what is an ambulance other than a supremely tough, super-maneuverable public service tank analogue designed to tackle any kind of road? This year, over 40 teams had ambulances. The Mongol Rally may be developing an Ambulance Problem).

This isn’t just a bunch of moneyed twits hee-hawing their way to for’n parts. This is hundreds of dedicated, well-prepared, adventure-hardened individuals putting their welfare on the line to raise money for people who need it, organised by a much smaller number of dedicated, well-prepared adventure-hardened folk.

This is a human endeavour to warm your heart.

Fevered Mutterings image - Social Media Syndicate at the Mongol Rally - Mike Sowden

NOTE: donations are still needed. Feeling the urge? My mates the Social Media Syndicate (above) would be utterly delighted to pass along your donation (from which they take a cut of exactly zero percent) - click here.

5. Would I Go On The Mongol Rally?

I can’t drive.

I get mildly car-sick.

I get grouchy when I’m tired.

I’m easily bored.

And frankly, I’m terrible at Travel Scrabble.

But would I go on the Mongol Rally?

HELL yeah.

Images: The Wandering AngelHolidayextras, purpaboo and Mike Sowden
Many thanks go to Travel4Press for featuring the Festival Of Slow as a press opportunity for freelance travel journalists. If you’re a travel writer, especially if you’re based in the UK, I honestly can’t recommend T4P enough for finding work and keeping up with industry news. Did I mention they’re free to use? Yeah. Amazing.

Mongol Rally 2011: You’re Doing *What*?

It is described as “the greatest adventure in the world”. It’s 10,000 miles in vehicles powered by engines not exceeding 1,200cc and often chosen more for their novelty value that their long-distance roadworthiness – like ambulances (see above).

It’s delightful, eccentric, incredibly brave, thrillingly intrepid…and thoroughly bonkers.

There is nothing like staring down the bonnet of a Nissan Micra at hundreds of miles of dirt track and foot high rocks. Or driving for 15 hours and only getting 20km, then finding out it was in the wrong direction.

 - The Adventurists

It is, of course, the Mongol Rally, leaving Goodwood Circuit in England and honking, weaving, rumbling, lurching and juddering 10,000 miles across Europe to Ulan Bator, Mongolia. Tomorrow, I’ll have the enormous pleasure to attend the Festival of Slow and watch these real-life Wacky Racers - including the travel-bloggers of the Social Media Syndicate - depart on the road-trip of a lifetime, probably marvelling at how calm and sane they appear considering what they’re about to do.

I’ll also be enormously jealous.

Watch this space.

(Unless I find some trunk-space to squeeze into, in which case, see you in a few months).

Image: HolidayExtras.

Austria: Gone In 60 Seconds

Fevered Mutterings image: Stopwatch, by wwarby - Flickr

Here’s a true story about how I nearly didn’t go to Austria a few weeks ago.

It was a really close thing.

60 seconds.

5.30am

Stumbling. Coffee. Cannot. Think.

Things, fanned out on the floor in an order than made perfect sense last night – or more correctly, earlier this morning. Most of everything is already packed, but these are the things I’ve made an extra list of, the things I needed overnight: electric toothbrush, washkit, phone, asthma medicine, Kindle, pinstripe pyjamas, bowler hat etc.  Amidst these items are the Things I Cannot Forget Under Any Circumstances (e-tickets, passport, non-e-tickets, wallet, pinstripe pyjamas, bowler hat). They’re all arranged in an order that will make me think about them as I pack them, ingraining that memory to help stave off panic that I’ve forgotten something.

Item 1. It’s….what is it? It’s like a – long stick thing, in some baffling material that isn’t wood and isn’t metal…..plastic, yes, that’s it. I pull the end off, exposing a transparent tube half-full of a dark blue substance. Further investigation uncovers the presence of a very small ball-bearing at one end that seems designed to “roll” the dark liquid out, for reasons currently beyond me.  I experiment fruitlessly.

Ten minutes pass.

Clearly I’m in no fit state for rational thought – I just need to act. I scoop everything into my bag that’s currently within reach including, as I later discover, a small Thai cookbook, a stapler, a credit card statement, an adjustable spanner and a bag of lemons. The coffee is starting to kick in, but it’s only making me more alert, not smarter. I throw some porridge at my face, brush my teeth, slap myself a few times (no reaction) and lurch out the door.

Well, at least I’m early.

I have plenty of time to spare. You know – in case something goes wrong.

6.05am.

The morning air hits me like a something of something. (I’m too tired for metaphors).

I breathe deeply. In – and OUT. And gradually, miraculously, the fog clears. It starts to dawn on me that life is good. I’m about to leave for Austria, starting with a Megabus service that leaves the city centre at 6.55am. I have just under an hour to get there, it’s a half-hour walk and I’m playing it safe by taking the bus (transit time 10 minutes). Another deep breath. My spirits lift. Ah! Yes! Let’s do this.

With a light heart I lift my rucksack and heave it onto one shoulder.

It bursts.

6.15am

I’m sweating enough for my glasses to keep sliding down my nose. I’ve just spent 8 minutes frantically stuffing my gear into another backpack, and 2 minutes kicking my ruined rucksack around the garden, shouting at it like Basil Fawlty.

It’s still going to be ok. I still have 40 minutes. I could still walk – and yet there’s a bus.

I walk to the bus stop, ignoring my pounding heart and wobbly legs.

6.22am

I’m at the bus-stop.

People are looking at me oddly.

Perhaps it’s the madness gleaming in my eyes. Perhaps it’s the way my glasses keep sliding down to the end of my nose. Or perhaps it’s the way I’ve disgorged half of my rucksack into the ground and I’m sifting through my possessions, muttering “no no NO NO NO“, louder and louder, like a kettle of negativity coming to the boil.

My passport is gone.

6.27am

I’m outside my house again. I’ve just done something akin to the 4-minute mile, proportionally scaled down to my non-Bannisterian level of fitness. I totter up, pluck my passport from the stretch of pavement where my rucksack exploded, and turn around. My luggage is back at the bus-stop – I’d asked my wary companions to keep an eye on my possessions, hoping the bus wouldn’t arrive before I got back.

I’m utterly, utterly exhausted. There’s just no way I can run back.

My Megabus to London leaves in 28 minutes.

I run back.

6.31am

My rucksack is alone. The bus came, and the bus went. The next one will be around 6.45am. That’ll probably be too late.

What are my chances of making a run for it? Slim. I’ve tried sprinting with a fully-laden rucksack before – I remember it clearly. I remember the way my knees ached for a week, I remember the accompanying asthma attack. And that was when I was 20. I’m truly too old for that shit.

Hitch-hiking is my only hope.

6.40am

“Oh come ON. COME ON!”

Perhaps hitch-hikers shouldn’t be so aggressive. I’m scowling at the cars whizzing past, jabbing my thumb at them like a Roman Emperor sentencing them to death. None of them are stopping. I curse the British and their inability to make new friends, even ones as scary as I must look right now.

I know it’s probably too late, but while there’s a chance….

6.45am

It’s a 10-minute drive to the city centre. And traffic is picking up. There’s just no way I’m going to get there in time.

How am I going to write this up, I think to myself? People know I’m going to Austria. Sure, it’s common knowledge that I attract disaster, but usually I find a way to muddle my way through. This is different. Not only am I losing hundreds of pounds in tickets, missing the chance to meet someone I admire immensely and not returning to a place I’ve reminisced about for 20 years – I’m not even leaving home this time. I can’t put a funny spin on this one. It’s not funny. Not at all.

Game over.

6.46am

A white van  pulls up in front of me and the passenger door swings open.

“Where are you going?”

Bob (this isn’t his real name, I was way too panicked to ask) immediately understands the situation, and hammers his van to its limits. We power through two sets of greened traffic lights. Hope starts to flame within me once more. And then, with a minute’s driving left and a minute before the Megabus departs – we hit a red light. Hope gutters. Have I really come this far to have this happen to me? Is this fair?

Two minutes later, it’s amber and we’re through.

It’s 6.56am – and the bus will have gone.

6.57am

I’m running again, with a fully laden backpack, a 39-year old man running down the side of the road, dignity in tatters, stumbling, breath whooshing in and out. And then I’m off the path, across a patch of ornamental gardens, my knees like jelly…

“HOLD ON!”

The Megabus driver later told me he always gives late arrivals a couple of minutes. When he saw me explode out the side of a white van and come dashing down the road, those minutes had passed. He’d been ready to go.

Another minute and he would have – and the next 5 days of travel, of mountains and cake and elk and castles and Mozartkugeln and un-fun airport lounges and good conversation and amazing roofs…all of those things would have vanished.

But incredibly, and against the odds, they didn’t.

And I still can’t quite believe that.

(Note: all of this is true. Even the lemons).

Images:  wwarby and Mike Sowden.
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