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Travel Technology: It’s What It *Does*, Stupid

Fevered Mutterings image - Mystery Bag, by JD Hancock - Flickr

What stuff do you need to go travelling?

Let’s pretend we’re back at school, and that’s an essay question. What are we trained to do? Break down. (The question, I mean). We disassemble into its component concepts, in search of the tricksiest.

And what’s the troublesome word here?

Need.

I have a real problem with that word – because I’m needy. Not in the “talk to me or I’m going to bawl into a tub of ice-cream” way. In the sense that I find everything fascinating.

No, really. Have you ever really, truly looked at [insert some mundane object here]? It’s AMAZING. We live in a world of invisible, endlessly entertaining miracles. Have something you want to sell me? I’m sold! In fact I’d be the perfect consumer, were it not for the tragic fact that I have no money. Everything commands my attention, which is why I often neurologically short out in public and stand there, drooling and gently soiling myself.

It’s because the world is so fascinating.

For this reason, I’m bewildered when people use the word “bored”. Are we occupying the same reality? Hey, Bored Person, here’s a list of things you should do before you are allowed to use the b-word – and yes, I’m sorry it’s rather long, it’s because there’s Absolutely Everything on it. Off you pop now.

Not everyone is as easily impressed as me – but it’s a fact that we’re all overwhelmed with desirable objects. We just can’t cram things into our lives fast enough. And that’s the way other people like it. Out there are fabulously clever folk who know how to design, make and promote things that instantly become necessities the moment we start playing. (My most recent example? Evernote. What did I do before Evernote? It probably involved banging rocks together). Such marvels feel like they complete us, by erasing our older memories of feeling complete. It’s mystical and magical.

It’s also how to end up travelling the world with useless crap.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Eternal Wanderer, by mamnaimie - Flickr

The problem arises when the emotional component of “need” swamps the practical one. Case in point: last month, my beloved Kindle was either mislaid or stolen at Heathrow Airport. I discovered it was gone when I boarded my flight to Frankfurt and reached into my bag, ready to let George RR Martin take away my flight nerves. I rummaged. I dug. I turfed everything out. Gone. Gone. I slid into a miserable funk. When the inflight drinks arrived and I was handed orange juice, I asked the air hostess for something stronger. She gave me stronger orange juice. (And they say Germans don’t have a sense of humour). Sober and utterly without reading material, I resorted to playing a game that involved applying just enough knee-pressure to the seat in front for the occupant to shift uncomfortably, but not enough for them to realise I was to blame. This passed the time nicely. (The lesson: misanthropic psychological warfare is a great way to get over a fear of flying).

In Austria, I downloaded Kindle for Android, and all the books I was reading (ta, Amazon).

And in doing so…I realised I didn’t really need a Kindle anymore.

Oh, I wanted one. I wanted one so bad that its absence was like emotional toothache. Inwardly I pined and wailed – but I still read my books on my phone. And you know what? It was fine. No, it was great. It was everything I needed from an ebook reader. And I shudder to say this, but…it still is everything I need.

Sure, I want a new Kindle – but I can survive without one, thankyouverymuch.

It’s a difficult process, stripping away the layers of want to find that kernal of need. Context is important. That’s why travelling is a great way to find out if something is useless, cumbersome crap. It’s also a great way to lug useless, cumbersome crap around, having seasoned travellers and hotel staff laugh at you pityingly until the day you lose your patience and stuff the offending article in a stranger’s half-open bin. Nothing breeds self-contempt like an unnecessarily heavy backpack or suitcase. (In Greece, I ended throwing away my suitcase, choosing the lesser evil of a single  rucksack so overladen it was nearly spherical).

That approach is best avoided. You’re better off deciding what you need in advance.

But how?

My best answer is one that the beauty-loving part of me hates. It’s a grimly mechanical view of the world. It’s utilitarian – and I hate utilitarian. It’s the following simple question:

What does it do?

If I’m going travelling, my rule of thumb is to choose function over form. Does it do the same job as something larger and heavier, equally if not more reliably? Then I don’t care how it looks. I don’t care if it’s a piece of Hello Kitty merchandise, or plastered with Justin Bieber’s intensely irritating face - it goes in. And nuts to my social credibility (if I have any left, that is).

Fevered Mutterings image - Hunny Bunny, by Lita Bosch - Flickr

And there’s another benefit to uglifying your possessions, as Shannon O’Donnell notesthey’re less likely to get stolen. Have an expensive camera? Wind duct-tape around it until it’s an eyesore. Smartphone? Make it look it’s freshly repaired by an idiot who clearly knows nothing about technology, ie. you. Visually brand yourself as the kind of person who wouldn’t carry anything worth stealing.

I’ll admit – I find all this tough. I love gadgets and oddities, and I’m easily prone to daydreams of how I’d use them when I travel (“YES, this Inflatable Turkey would be just *perfect* for…hell, I don’t care, I just want it!”). I’m a hoarder. But most of my squirrelling tendencies, born of immediately being smitten with the idea of something rather than the reality of something, can’t survive the What Does It Do line of enquiry. That’s how I best spot unneceessary crap before it has a chance to clamber onto my shoulders…

So what about you? How do you decide what you really, truly need to pack?

Image: mamnamie, Lita Bosch and JD Hancock.

Mongol Rally 2011: The Festival Of Slow (Clothing Optional)

Fevered Mutterings image - Crowds seen from ambulance window, Festival of Slow, Mongol Rally 2011- Mike Sowden

Poor devils. Little do they know what's coming.

The ambulance picks up speed.

“I’m really sorry!” shouts the bleached-haired man in the doorway as I fight to click in my seat-belt.

WHAT? I CAN’T HEAR….”

“I said I’m really sorry - I’M ABOUT TO GET NAKED!”

I laugh dutifully. Well, they’re adventurers, not comedians, and however in-jokey or lame their attempts at humour are, I’m their guest. I should make the effort. I force a semblance of an amused grin and give the thumbs-up, then turn back to the window to photograph the crowds blurring past.

When I turn back, he’s naked.

Fevered Mutterings image - Spectators, Festival of Slow, Mongol Rally - Mike Sowden

I say, is it my imagination, Muriel, or is that ambulance filled with nudists?

The vehicle stops. I suddenly see the driver has become naked as well. And the front passenger. The fourth member of the team is still clothed and looks disturbed, but not entirely surprised. There is an air of normality about this unexpected eruption of nudity, a matter-of-factness. I’m suddenly concerned that they’ll ask me to participate in whatever the hell it is they’re doing. Terrified, even.

Naked Man n0. 1 pulls open the side-door and steps out, full-frontalling the crowd. I point my camera at the sea of laughing, horrified faces – then a pair of (mercifully blurry) bare buttocks fill my viewfinder, bisected vertically with a strip of luminous green. He’s not naked – he’s wearing a mankini.

In other words, worse than naked.

For my first press photographer’s lap of the circuit, I’ve somehow managed to pick an emergency vehicle driven by Borats.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Mankini'd bloke, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden (the photographer, I mean)

Cheeky.

The Mongol Rally‘s Festival of Slow is all about spectacle. Beyond the Russian Border Guards, Undercover Spies and Mail-Order Brides picking their way through the crowds looking for prey…

I lav yoo! Need of wife? Ivana makes you happy, PayPal it is OK!

…beyond the gryrating Mongolian wrestlers and the hypercaffeinated MC rushing up and down the track, barely able to get the words into his microphone fast enough…

Well, there were the entrants.

Fevered Mutterings image - Discovery Channel vehicle, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

The perfect blend of car and Muppet - the "carpet".

Fevered Mutterings image - Various vehicles, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

Fevered Mutterings image - Smartcar in the Mongol Rally, 2011 - Mike Sowden

You're doing it in a *what*?

Fevered Mutterings image - Entrants, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

I've seen bog-bodies less brown than these guys.

You're going via Iraq? And the flag will be up all the way? Um...all the best.

Fevered Mutterings image - Craziness on a Mongol Rally car, Festival of Slow - Mike Sowden

Oh, don't even ask.

Fevered Mutterings image - Cars waiting to depart, Festival of Slow, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

Dear diary... Day 1: totally gridlocked. I now realise my months of playing Colin McRae DiRT were no training at *all*.

Before my lap in the Mankini Ambulance is up, I learn the reason for all this brazen man-flesh on display. The chaps in question are Halley’s Comics, and they’re raising funds for the Orchid male (prostate, penile, testicular) cancer charity. There’s method in their nakedness.

I leap out at the end of the lap, wish them good luck (and warmer clothing), and hunt for my next ride…

Acknowledgements:

The Adventurists were kind enough to invite me to this year’s Festival Of Slow (and pay for my train ticket).  It’s the eighth year of the Mongol Rally and the biggest yet, raising over £380,000 for charity at the time of writing.

You can track the progress of the Mongol Rally teams here: http://www.theadventurists.com/the-adventures/mongol-rally/live

(And go say hi to my friends Dave, Deb, Rick & Sherry of the Social Media Syndicate. They’ve already been pulled over by the police, and probably need your support).

Images: Mike Sowden, 2011.
Many thanks go to Travel4Press for featuring the Festival Of Slow as a press opportunity for freelance travel journalists. If you’re a travel writer, especially if you’re based in the UK, I honestly can’t recommend T4P enough for finding work and keeping up with industry news. Did I mention they’re free to use? Yeah. Amazing.

Nobody Expects The Orkney Haar

Surely my eyes have blown a fuse. The world is blank – not a hole (because holes are *in* something) but a total absence, a blackness filled with light.

Vertigo sweeps over me. And…that strange muddled sense of depth, like when you’re drifting off to sleep in a darkened room and suddenly you can’t tell if the ceiling is a million miles away or pressed against your face.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Haar, between Mainland Orkney and Westray - Mike Sowden

If I look down, the illusion is broken by the ship’s side-wake, curling outwards like scraped butter, but if I tilt my gaze so everything disappears from my peripheral vision, I’m floating once more. The view is a featureless aether lit by a coin of light wan enough to stare at. I drift, spiritually untethered, a sense of peace filling my entire….

…!!!!

Dear god.

Obviously. Obviously they would have…sounded the...fog-horn. Because we’re…in fog.

But…couldn’t they WARN us first?

Fevered Mutterings Image - Haar lifting, between Mainland Orkney and Westray - Mike Sowden

Suddenly the horizon is back, in the time it takes you to read this sentence.

Behind us, the ship’s wake appears and lengthens. Are we picking up speed? No – it’s the fog we’re emerging from, revealing the mark of our passage like a meteorological magic trick.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Wake of ship emerging from haar - Mike Sowden

Here in Orkney, a sea-fog or haar can descend at any time. In this case it’s in the middle of a sunny July day (2009).

This confuses me. Fog needs the kind of cool, damp air you’d find in Winter? But then I remembered the haar I met in August 2006 when I slept rough on the Orkney Mainland. Why fog in summer? The answer is wind, or rather a lack of it – during the Winter months, the incessant wind picks up enough to blow the fog away. It’s always around, developing wherever there’s a pronounced temperature difference between sea and sky …but Winter is more adept at moving it along, presumably to make room for some real weather.

Fevered Mutterings Image - Fog on Westray - Mike Sowden

A few days later, I emerge from my tent at Chalmersquoy on Westray after an afternoon nap to find everything smudged with haar. I watch (cursing at my camera’s inability to do it justice) as it rolls down from the hills and blankets the middle of Pierowall bay, a strip of cloud as discrete as a contrail – and as it dissipates, the buildings at the opposite side of the bay emerge, rising like the Golden Gate

Fevered Mutterings Image - Fog over Pierowall Bay, Westray - Mike Sowden

Images: Mike Sowden, 2009.

Mongol Rally 2011: A Few Myths Busted

Fevered Mutterings Image - Road To Forever, by The Wandering Angel - Flickr

Let’s say you bumped into me in the street a month ago, and asked me about the Mongol Rally.

I’m ashamed to say I’d have sounded like a misinformed idiot.

A Few Idiotic Myths About The Mongol Rally

1. It’s some kind of race, right? (To Mongolia? Duh).
2. It’s some kind of holiday. (Probably involving lots of good food and sunshine, the lucky gits).
3. It’s totally safe.
4. It’s just a bit of a laugh.
5. Hey, I could go on the Mongol Rally. Easily.

Then I attended the Festival of Slow – and the following things became clear to me.

Fevered Mutterings image - Starters orders, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

A Few Idiotic Myths Bust Wide Open

1. It’s Not A Race

Last Saturday, at Goodwood motor circuit, a long line of cars, trucks and ambulances revved their engines and honked and nee-naa’d their horns. The tannoy barked “Ready….set…..GO…SLOW!”  And off they roared on a parade lap of a 2.3 mile track that has hosted the likes of Graham Hill, Donald Campbell and Sterling Moss – this was the track that ended the latter’s international career in 1962, and took the life of Bruce McLaren in 1970. This is a track built for danger and for speed.

So, erm…slow?

Let’s get one thing straight here. You don’t race 10,000+ miles. You survive it. The Mongol Rally is daunting enough without a competitive edge. That’d be like setting up a space programme that encouraged astronauts to race each other to the ISS. It’s a stupid, dangerous suggestion – but more than that, it’s internationally illegal. There is absolutely no way the Mongol Rally would be allowed to cross the breadth of Europe and Asia, by whatever route the drivers choose, as a race. This is no Cannonball Run.

Cheer for these people. Cheer your socks off.

But not because you want them to win – because you want them to get there.

2. It’s Not A Holiday

Meet Rick, Dave, Deb and Sherry (hiding behind Rick), of the Social Media Syndicate.

Have a look at their car. Nice little motor, yes?

Now imagine being in it for 6 weeks, driving over a third of the circumference of this planet. Imagine being in that car for hours and hours at a stretch, day in, day out, sometimes driving, sometimes map-reading, sometimes panicking because the road is turning to a quagmire or increasingly banged full of potholes that are about oooh, roughly the size of a car. Imagine extremes of weather lashing at that car, terrifying the occupants. Imagine all the things that will, will, go wrong in the many fantastically desolate places in between Chichester and Ulaanbaatar.

Imagine there’s no support crew.

Fevered Mutterings image: Mongol Rally 2010 by Holidayextras - Flickr

Here’s the thing about the Mongol Rally: once you’re off, you’re absolutely on your own. It may have felt scary during preparation – organising visas, working out which route will require the least amount of bribing or waiting at border-crossings, realising there are some things you just have to leave to chance – but that’s going to be nothing compared with getting onto the road. Because it’s now your rally. As terrific a job as rally organisers The Adventurists have done to get you to this point and see you off, their responsibility for you ends here, for practical and legal reasons.

It’s now completely up to you.

(I spoke to Adventurist Dan Wedgwood about this. His opinion: the most common problem for competitors is overpreparation and its wretched offspring, overloading. You know when you put a travel-iron in your suitcase and you end up lugging the damn thing from hotel to hotel without using it once? Magnify that by a car boot load and 10,000 miles. The only sane course is faith. Faith that out there is everything you need, and faith in your ability to track it down when you need it. Faith. Remember to pack it).

One definition of holidaying is “travel with some kind of safety net”.

No safety net? Then this isn’t holidaying.

It’s adventuring.

Fevered Mutterings image - Mongol Rally 2006 crash by purpaboo - Flickr

3. It’s Not Safe

The Mongol Rally poses risks to your health and your life. You will be driving for many thousands of miles in parts of the world that are unfamiliar to you, which means your chances of being involved in a road accident or in any number of other health and life-threatening situations is significantly increased from your day to day life.

- The Adventurists

Download the Mongol Rally handbook (pdf) and have a read. Notice the utter candour about the risks involved. Notice phrases like “hectic, chaotic and dangerous”. Imagine something going wrong – as in really wrong – when you’re hundreds of miles from the nearest doctor, let alone hospital.

Explore that feeling for a second. Thrill in the horror of it.

(Don’t forget to breathe).

This is a risky business – and people have died while attempting it. The fact that almost everyone completes the Mongol Rally in (more or less) one piece is a testament to the type of person who enters – people with their eyes open, their brains fully engaged and an unshakeably optimistic “can do” attitude firmly in place.

Yes, it’s risky – but these people can handle it.

Fevered Mutterings image - Reliant Robin, Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

4. It’s Not Just A Bit Of A Laugh

Why on earth would 350 teams of apparently sane people drive halfway across the world in ridiculously underpowered vehicles?

Because it’s fun. Isn’t that reason enough?

Actually…no, it isn’t. And it’s not the sole reason they do it, either.

Beyond the £700 entry fee, every participating team is required to earn at least £1,000 for charity. Half of that money will be going to the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation, to a specific project running in Mongolia called the Blue Skies Ger Village Project that develops housing for Ulaanbaatar’s orphans and street kids.

(Note that’s £1,000 as a lower limit: the record for a single team’s fundraising is a whopping £55,000).

But that’s not all. The vehicles are themselves part of the event’s charitable donations, turned over to the Foundation at journey’s end to be resold and spruced up by Mongolian car mechanics. This is the reason behind the recent stipulation that all entry vehicles must be less than 10 years old…exempting the emergency service vehicles.

Fevered Mutterings image - The ambulances of the Mongol Rally 2011 - Mike Sowden

(When I first heard decommissioned ambulances were being used, I blinked. Ten thousand miles – in an ambulance? But if you think about it, what is an ambulance other than a supremely tough, super-maneuverable public service tank analogue designed to tackle any kind of road? This year, over 40 teams had ambulances. The Mongol Rally may be developing an Ambulance Problem).

This isn’t just a bunch of moneyed twits hee-hawing their way to for’n parts. This is hundreds of dedicated, well-prepared, adventure-hardened individuals putting their welfare on the line to raise money for people who need it, organised by a much smaller number of dedicated, well-prepared adventure-hardened folk.

This is a human endeavour to warm your heart.

Fevered Mutterings image - Social Media Syndicate at the Mongol Rally - Mike Sowden

NOTE: donations are still needed. Feeling the urge? My mates the Social Media Syndicate (above) would be utterly delighted to pass along your donation (from which they take a cut of exactly zero percent) - click here.

5. Would I Go On The Mongol Rally?

I can’t drive.

I get mildly car-sick.

I get grouchy when I’m tired.

I’m easily bored.

And frankly, I’m terrible at Travel Scrabble.

But would I go on the Mongol Rally?

HELL yeah.

Images: The Wandering AngelHolidayextras, purpaboo and Mike Sowden
Many thanks go to Travel4Press for featuring the Festival Of Slow as a press opportunity for freelance travel journalists. If you’re a travel writer, especially if you’re based in the UK, I honestly can’t recommend T4P enough for finding work and keeping up with industry news. Did I mention they’re free to use? Yeah. Amazing.
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